Like many people, I have felt the urge to disconnect from all the world’s worries and focus on my inner peace. Travelling to Chang Mai in Thailand allowed me to do so, and my research for meditation centres began. After reviewing a few options, I have chosen Pa Pae Meditation Retreat, which is only an hour and a half drive from Chang Mai.Â
I was excited but also worried about sleeping with strangers in basic accommodation, waking up at 5 a.m., and eating my last meal at 11:30 a.m. But I gathered all my bravery and decided to try it, and I am so glad I did.Â
I want to share my experience and tell you how I found it so you know what to expect if you consider attending a meditation retreat in Thailand.Â
3-day meditation retreat schedule:
The structured 3-Day retreat consisted of Formal teachings by Buddhist Monks spread across three days with four meditations daily. Discovering the meditation practice called The Middle Way.Â
Pa Pae Meditation Retreat offered a 3-night stay with sleeping accommodation, scheduled meditation, lectures, activities, and two meals daily for 1500 baht ($45).
If you liked the 3-day structured retreat, you can extend your stay for 500 baht or $15 a night for as long as you wish.Â
The overview of the schedule:Â
Each day started at 6 a.m. or 5:30 a.m. Breakfast was around 7:30 a.m., and lunch was around 11:30 a.m. Most days, the program was finished around 9 p.m.
Arrival day:
Most of the people arrived via minibus from Chang Mai or Pai. After we all changed into white clothes, got our books, and had our accommodation assigned, accompanied by a monk and three beautiful dogs, we were shown the beautiful grounds. There were around 60 of us ( way more than I expected), but I was lucky to be allocated a private bungalow with two beds and a fan.Â
We then had an introduction to meditation, finished with 30 minutes of practice, and went to bed.Â
First day:
On the first day, we had to stay silent trough out all day to go inward and not distract ourselves with chatter. I found it so beneficial and loved just absorbing everything around me without talking. I also found that without anyone else’s opinions, you can enjoy the moment without being influenced. Being silent on the first day helped the mind to slow down and take in the beautiful surroundings.
Second day:
Meditating on the bank of a river, barefoot walking meditation, meditating around a fire in a jungle. This day was all about feeling one with nature. Despite mosquito bites (I suppose a part of nature), it was so peaceful and a great way to meditate, especially in the evening when all the jungle around you wakes up with the sounds of birds, frogs and insects becoming so loud and helping you to ease in into meditation.Â
Third day:
This day started earlier with a 5:30 meditation and chanting. We then joined the monks to collect the alms ( food donations) in the village. It was magical to see old Thai ladies so excited to see monks with a group of white-dressed foreigners. They were so warm and welcoming.Â
After lunch, we had our last group meditation, listened to personal monk stories, and closed off by sharing our individual experiences.
Location
The location is truly magical! Nestled in the jungle, the village is peaceful and vibrant green. A pretty jungle surrounds you, with frogs and birds joining you for meditation. Although I am not a morning person, I will never forget seeing the jungle wake before our morning meditation.Â
In addition to many halls for meditation, there are also spaces for free time, including a library, beautiful areas to practise yoga, water features and hammocks everywhere. There are also many swings and viewing points where you can meditate, read or just sit and watch the nature change around you.
You can also wander off to a nearby village and get to know the locals, who are so lovely and welcoming.Â
AccommodationÂ
The accommodation was very basic but also had everything you needed. It is not a luxury retreat but a place of simple living. Â
The bed is small and hard. There is no air conditioning; not everyone was as lucky as I was to get a fan. A few people struggled with sleeping conditions. However, I was surprised that I managed to get a decent amount of sleep and enjoyed the simplicity.Â
The showers and toilets are shared but always clean. They also had water units so you could fill up your water bottles as much as you like.
There were two main halls for meditation, but we also meditated in more open areas.Â
You were provided square, thin mats for meditation or could choose more padded ones. There were a limited number of meditation mats with a backrest. You could also choose to meditate on a chair.Â
Atmosphere
The experience is so calming and peaceful that you need to experience it to understand it. The monks are very friendly and explain everything in simple words without complicating anything. Simple is a word I would use to describe Pa Pae Retreat. Simple in the most beautiful way.Â
I loved the honesty and openness of the monks. They shared their personal stories and struggles before becoming monks. I liked the ease and humour, and the vibe was just good.Â
I would also love to mention the dogs. Jessie, Ninja, and Shadow, with newly joined Bruise, followed the group everywhere, keeping all of us safe. They occasionally asked for cuddles or sneaked into places they were not supposed to, making us all smile. It was beautiful to see dogs running around freely and so happy and just being dogs.Â
Food
Each meal begins with a bell rig and offerings to monks. We had to pretend we were offering the food, as monks were traditionally only allowed to eat it if they were offered it ( I will explain later).Â
You have two options: vegetarian and meat buffet-style meals for breakfast and lunch. We also got some fruit, tea, and water. You could also buy coffee, smoothies, and small snacks at the two cafes in the retreat grounds. I was surprised by how delicious the food was, even if it mainly consisted of rice and curry. I was also surprised by how protein-dense vegetarian meals were, as they always included tofu and satan.Â
I packed some snacks, including nuts and bananas, and they did save me from becoming hangry, especially on the day of arrival. But overall, maybe due to a large amount of rice, a generous amount of food, and not moving too much, I did not feel too hungry overall.Â
Organization
Most of the thighs were very well organized and smooth, although you could notice some inexperienced volunteers that were not quite sure what to do, especially on the arrival. I feel that arrival could have been explained a bit better. It was pretty tricky to understand how to get to the location, and also, when we arrived, there were a few misunderstandings. I felt that no one was really in charge.
I liked that there was a WhatsApp group chat where we could ask questions, share pictures, and also arrange a pick-up/drop-off from the bus station.
 I also found a lot of repetition and contradiction in the different monk teachings. A better-planned teaching structure could be needed to avoid repeating the same material or going off-topic. But overall, the monks were terrific, passionate, friendly, and approachable.
Other activities and extra food
In addition to meditation and lectures by moks, the retreat offered other activities for small fees, such as sauna, treks in the jungle, tea-making workshops, and massage. I found this very nice as it kept everyone entertained. I loved the massage; it was technically very good and only cost 200 baht ($6). It was well-needed after a few long days of sitting crosslegged and sleeping on a very hard bed.
Who is the target audience for this meditation retreatÂ
The retreat was more relaxed than others I have researched, and it is perfect for beginners or someone who occasionally meditates and wants to deepen their knowledge about meditation and Buddhism.Â
It is more of an introduction to meditation and Buddism, a taste of discipline, and a challenge to remove yourself from daily comforts like waking up early, sleeping on a hard bed, having only two daily meals, and sitting crosslegged or in a chair for long periods.
Who should choose other options?
If you are experienced in meditating and looking for a challenging or silent retreat.
If you expect vipassana meditation, this retreat focuses on âMiddle Wayâ meditation.Â
It may not be for you if you want to stay silent throughout the retreat. Although you can ask for a âsilentâ badge and wear it throughout the retreat, other people will be talking, so if you want to disconnect from people’s interactions, it might not be for you.
The retreat has many Western monks from the US, Australia, Germany, and Slovakia. Although you will have some lectures given by Thai monks, most of the learning will be from Western, newly converted monks who may not have all the answers about Buddhism or enlightment. So, if you want to learn from the locals and have an authentic experience, this might not be it.Â
Overall experience:
Things I lovedÂ
The location is so beautiful that it is worth going to the retreat to spend time there.Â
I loved the meal times, as we would all sit together, share our experiences, and get to know each other better. The meditation sessions were serious, but the lectures were heartwarming, inspiring, and sometimes even funny. The head monk had a great sense of humour that made many people laugh.Â
I also love how this experience connected everyone involved and created a peaceful community. It was so interesting to see how people were experiencing things differently and how everyone learned to slow down and just be.Â
I came away with a much better understanding of Buddhism, and it was great to learn about it from monks.
Things that could be improved
I wish more time had been allocated to group meditation and some slightly longer sessions had been included. Most of the time meditation lasted 20 to 30 minutes, followed by a lot of talking by monks- their personal stories and teachings about Buddhism. I expected a more focus on meditation and maybe less on Buddhism as most of the people who go to this kind of retreat come to learn how to meditate.Â
To summariseÂ
Was it worth it?
Absolutely! I have enjoyed staying at the Pa Pae meditation retreat much more than I thought I would. I was so surprised that I loved not talking, sleeping on a hard bed, and eating two meals a day. I met amazing people, and it was very nice to connect with like-minded individuals.
If you are in the Chang Mai or Pai area in Thailand, I recommend going to the Pa Pae retreat to switch off and reconnect with nature and yourself.Â
If, after reading this article, you would like to experience it yourself, here is the website.
If you would like to know what I have learned in the Pa Pae mediation retreat, read Wisdom You Can Learn From Buddhist Monks.
Silvija Meilunaite PN1-NC, is a certified nutrition coach and a writer in the nutrition and self-improvement field with a passion for exploring science-based knowledge focusing on holistic health and plant-based nutrition.
Featured in the Wellness on Time magazine.
